How To Build a PC: Ultimate Guide 2024

Building Your Own Desktop PC: Step-by-Step Guide

Introduction; How to Build a PC

It’s possible that you’ve always relied on a laptop or prebuilt desktop computers. However, if you’ve always believed that constructing your own desktop computer is impossible for you, there’s hope: you can succeed if you’re confident enough to use a screwdriver and adhere to simple instructions. It’s true that constructing a PC these days is a lot like assembling furniture from a well-known Swedish retailer. The best aspect is that you get to choose the components that really personalize your PC—unlike that bookcase.

Online resources containing building guidelines and tutorials for PCs are widely available. Our goal is to give you the background information you need to choose each item and assemble your purchases. We’ll leave extensive instructions that are cited throughout to handle part selection in depth. You can follow along as we assemble a feature-rich mainstream gaming PC to learn more about the actual PC manufacturing process.

There are countless variations in PC building, hence no manual can cover them all. However, we’ll cover the most frequent problems that arise when putting together a PC. You will leave with a firm foundation in the knowledge you need to complete the task with confidence, even if you want to go fancier or more cost-effective with your build.

Choosing the Key Components

With so many attractive, reasonably priced PC cases, mood lighting options, and color-coordinated components available today, PC builders can easily become engrossed in a design challenge or passion project. Undoubtedly, there is a hot-rodder component to this: Purchasing parts may come with a small price premium over purchasing a pre-built PC. Large PC manufacturers take advantage of economies of scale by purchasing parts in large quantities or creating some exclusive components that are unmatched by lone builders. If you compare the cost of the parts for your custom build to that of a pre-built system, you should often come quite close.

The PC Case

The PC build you choose is determined on the case you choose. Larger cases provide ample space for large graphics cards, disks, and motherboards, while smaller cases are more appropriate for places with limited space or media centers. Choosing a casing influences not just the motherboard but also, occasionally, the power supply of your computer.

Think on the location of your planned PC case placement: on your desk, beneath your desk, or in a nook of a wall unit or bookcase? Cases are available in a variety of sizes and forms, including the conventional tower and midtower cases, which are typically between 15 and 22 inches tall, the flatter “desktop” cases, which are meant to lie on their sides like stereo receivers, and the extremely small cases intended for minimalist setups. The sections that follow may, in some cases, determine the type of case you require. Alternatively, the components you choose may be determined by your case.

The supported motherboard formats are listed on every PC case. The three primary motherboard configurations are MicroATX, which is smaller and has fewer expansion slots, ATX, which is a full-size, mainstream motherboard, and Mini-ITX, which is even smaller and typically just has one slot for a video card. A few larger-than-ATX outliers, such as XL-ATX and Extended ATX (EATX), will be shown; however, novice builders should disregard these.

Smaller motherboard formats are typically supported by most cases that support a particular one; most ATX cases, for instance, can accommodate MicroATX and Mini-ITX motherboards. Nevertheless, to avoid wasting space, it’s a good idea to match the size class of your motherboard with your case.

Materials come in a great variety. Although black is usually the default color these days, you may still buy plain beige steel, but even inexpensive cases can have stylish features like side-panel windows to display your work. It’s true that cases with one or more tempered glass sides have grown in popularity and price.

You might not mind if the PC case you choose doesn’t have a side window or a lot of glitter, but you can now buy PC parts that match the exterior or inside of a case. A motherboard with a white or red printed circuit board (PCB) or highlights might look good next to a casing with an interior painted blackout. If you’re into the showcase side of construction, you can visually coordinate a PC build; in fact, you can get as creative as you want if that’s your thing.

The midtower chassis for ATX setups, the Corsair 4000D Airflow, is used in our setup. As we develop, you’ll discover a ton more about it.

The Motherboard

Expert PC builders frequently contend that choosing the motherboard should be your first choice when building a computer, with everything else falling into place. They are not incorrect. The motherboard is essentially the core of your computer and influences every other component decision you make.

There are various subtleties when choosing a motherboard, but they essentially boil down to three things: A motherboard must: (1) be compatible with the CPU of your choice; (2) fit your case in terms of size and form factor; and (3) have the internal expansion slots and external ports required for the installation you have planned.

The motherboard’s chipset, or integrated central operating silicon, and socket type are crucial on the first front. These control what processors you can install and how you may use the platform as a whole. The most recent mainstream Intel and AMD CPU sockets, such as AMD’s AM4 and AM5 for Intel Core and AMD Ryzen chips, and Intel Socket LGA 1700 for new motherboards intended for novice builders, are significant. The most recent Ryzen components are found in the more modern AM5, however because a wide variety of reasonably priced Ryzen CPUs are still compatible with AM4, AM4 is still useful for consumers on a tight budget.

Motherboards with alternative sockets for high-end desktop (HEDT) systems, such as AMD’s TR4/sTRX4 for Ryzen Threadripper CPUs and Intel’s LGA 2066 for the Core X-Series, may also be available in your neighborhood electronics store. Nothing prevents you from choosing one of these, but these processors and motherboards are quite expensive, very expensive, and only make sense for specific power users or content creators who work in the field.

As previously mentioned, the motherboard’s chipset determines which CPUs it supports, how many features it has in addition to its position within the range of boards that are compatible with a certain chip.

We are using an Asus Prime B660-Plus D4 motherboard for our project. It is the second-best platform for Intel 12th and 13th Generation CPUs, as indicated by the B. High-end AMD boards feature chipsets that begin with X, while top-tier Intel boards have chipsets that begin with Z. The second tier used by both manufacturers is a B series.

The CPU and the CPU Cooler

Your motherboard and CPU selection should work together; both need to be supported. Similar to choosing a motherboard, selecting a CPU involves several factors that are related to your budget, the purpose of your computer, and other factors like cooling and power usage. Today’s important CPU lines include AMD’s Ryzen 5000 and 7000 series and Intel’s 11th through 13th Gen Core.

Extremely low-end CPUs like AMD’s Athlon and Intel’s Celeron and Pentium are not included in our discussion. Although there is nothing fundamentally wrong with these processors, you should save enough money to buy at least a modest standard Core or Ryzen CPU if you’re going to go to the trouble of assembling a PC. Purchase a pre-built consumer system to benefit from the manufacturer’s economies of scale if your budget is too tight.

The Intel Core i7-13700K, which is now our top choice for gaming CPUs and a great option for productivity and content production, is what we choose for our sample setup. Since the 13th generation Intel chips have a tendency to run hot, a liquid cooling system is probably what you’ll want for this processor instead of merely a heatsink or fan. The K suffix designates an overclockable processor, but liquid is still preferable even in non-overclocking scenarios.

There are certain lower-end (non-K) CPUs in Intel’s 13th Gen lineup that have a suitable CPU cooler included. However, we’ve decided on an aftermarket Corsair H100i Elite liquid cooler.

The Memory Kit

The type of RAM you require will depend on the CPU and motherboard you purchase—DDR4 or DDR5. Check the maximum memory speeds that your motherboard can support, and if you’re a performance enthusiast, get a memory kit that complements that motherboard’s near-top memory capacity. Extended Memory Profiles (XMP) is a technology that Intel motherboards offer. It is an auto-overclocking and -optimization strategy to synchronize your memory and motherboard. Search for shared XMP parameters between the concerned board and your memory kit. AMD just unveiled AMD Expo, a comparable program that is compatible with its Ryzen 7000 AM5 platform.

Your usage case and budget will determine how much RAM you should purchase. The very minimum RAM required for a Windows desktop these days is 8GB, while 16GB or 32GB is certainly reachable given the current cost of RAM. To take advantage of dual-channel memory speeds, a typical setup requires a matched pair of memory modules. (It is not advised to mix and match different brands and speeds.) You could demand four modules for higher-end computers; certain Threadripper and Core X devices support up to eight.

Certain memory modules come with RGB lights or other cosmetic additions if your case has side windows. Compatibility with the motherboard’s qualified vendor list, or QVL, is a more crucial feature to check for. Examine the list of modules that the maker of your motherboard has tested with it. It’s an extra piece of peace of mind when you’re buying, but it doesn’t mean other modules won’t function properly. Some memory manufacturers, like Kingston and Crucial, offer recommendations for memory that is compatible with a certain motherboard.

A 32GB Corsair Vengeance RGB RS kit (two 16GB modules) with a maximum memory speed of 3200MHz is what we used in our build.

The Storage: SSDs and Hard Drives

These days, you have a lot of options when it comes to your PC’s storage subsystem, but modern motherboards come pre-configured with a solid-state boot drive that supports PCI Express data transfers in the M.2 format. Stick-of-gum sized M.2 drives provide you access to the high-speed PCI Express (abbreviated PCIe) bus, minimize cable clutter, and save up space inside your chassis. These days, PCI Express 4.0 drives are the de facto high-end performance standard.

Of course, you may still install a conventional platter hard drive, which is far less expensive per GB than an SSD. But, it’s likely that you won’t want more than 2TB of storage, thus SSDs are the best option. Hard drives are the better choice if you require 8TB, 10TB, or more of mass storage, as most solid-state drives only have a 4TB maximum capacity and are costly at that point.

In order to provide 8TB of inexpensive secondary storage, our setup combines a 2TB Corsair MP600 M.2 PCI Express boot drive for Windows and applications with a 3.5-inch hard drive.

The Power Supply

We’ll discuss power supply unit (PSU) sizes in more detail later on, but for now, use an internet calculator to figure out the minimum PSU wattage you’ll need in relation to the other components you’re adding. Your choice of CPU and graphics card will have the largest impact on power needs.

Our selection of a Corsair RM750e modular power supply should be sufficient to power the other parts, and it will allow us to connect only the necessary wires to maintain organization. The ATX form factor is employed.

The Graphics Card

While most CPUs can handle basic tasks like word processing, spreadsheets, and web browsing, if you want to play games or run intensive workstation apps or content creation software, you’ll need a dedicated graphics card with its own GPU (graphics processing unit). Shopping for it is a complicated component, but ultimately it boils down to your ability to pay, whether you play games, and which monitors you own. Have the funds ready to invest: Since late 2010s, when demand for graphics cards was driven by cryptocurrency mining and supplies were restricted by the epidemic, prices have risen. Avoiding excessive purchases is crucial. The sort of games you play, your monitor’s max refresh rate, and your goal resolution should all be taken into consideration.

The two major GPU manufacturers are AMD with Radeon and Nvidia with GeForce. Both provide top-tier cards for 4K resolution gaming on displays. Not exactly the best GeForce RTX 4070 Ti card was the one we chose. Starting at roughly $600, cards built on this GPU are powerful enough to play games at 1440p and, to a lesser extent, 4K resolutions with high detail and picture quality settings.

Although PNY makes this specific card, numerous other manufacturers sell RTX 4070 Ti cards with marginally different cooling and design approaches. All should, however, be performing within a similar ballpark. Modern mainstream GPUs are decent and start at about $300, with most older versions costing between $100 and $200 for basic 1080p gaming.

Some Extra Bits: Six RGB Fans, and an Internal USB Hub

Multiple 120mm cooling fans come pre-installed in our Corsair case, and the liquid cooler has two of its own. However, we made the decision to replace them all with RGB lights, adding two sets of three RGB fans, each of which included a multiport RGB controller. The kits are SP120 RGB Elite from Corsair.

Every fan has two cords: one for power and control and one for RGB. The controller will group all of the RGB cables together under a single component. Two of the fans will replace the standard fans on the radiator of the CPU cooler, and the remaining four will be mounted on the chassis (three in the front as intakes and one at the rear as an exhaust). The radiator fans will connect to a cable cluster that comes with the liquid cooler, and the case fans will attach to the motherboard.

An unique add-on to our construction is an internal USB header hub. Three USB 2.0 headers are required for our design (for the RGB controller, the Wi-Fi card, and the CPU liquid cooler); our motherboard only has two built in. Thus, the Corsair Internal 4-Port USB 2.0 Hub, a form of splitter, expands the case’s USB 2.0 header connector count.

Performing the PC Build, Step-by-Step

1. Gather Your Tools

A screwdriver from your junk drawer might be sufficient, but if you’re spending a lot of money on a new PC, consider investing in a good tool kit as well. It’s applicable not only to this project but also to future improvements, and a PC toolkit doesn’t have to be utilized exclusively with PCs.

Look for a decent screwdriver set that includes a variety of standard and Phillips bits, both big and little. Since you’ll be installing an M.2 solid-state drive, which calls for at least one bit for tiny screws, pay close attention to the Phillips assortment. Using magnetic screwdriver bits is a sensible choice; however, keep them away from any hard drives you may have. Additionally, search for a shaft extender in case you need to reach a screw that is obstructed by tall parts like a graphics card or CPU cooler. Power tools that are readily overtightened and can harm components, such as electric screwdrivers and drills, should never be used.

The majority of the mechanical work involved in assembling a PC is handling all the screws. Imagine a much smaller version of the magnetic parts trays used by vehicle mechanics. This type of tray will assist you in organizing and monitoring the many screw sizes you’ll encounter in any PC construction. Similar to your toolkit, it will also be useful outside of PC projects. A dollar-store pill sorter also functions well if cost is a concern.

The second component, a grounding strap, is a little more contentious. One is usually included in computer-specific tool packages. Whether you use it or not will depend on where you are building (both on Earth and in your home) and how much risk you can take.

Static, which may be harmless but has the potential to do harm, can be transferred to a PC component by touching it while you’re electrically charged. To the best of my knowledge, static has never destroyed a part in my PC, but I make them on tile and wood floors in a moderate climate. You will need a grounding strap if you work on shag carpet in a high desert climate and enjoy wearing woolly jumpers! One way to find a medium ground would be to place your new PC power supply on your workbench and touch the chassis from time to time to release any residual charge.

If you do choose to utilize a grounding strap, make sure it is securely fastened to something that reaches the ground. If you can secure the strap to a section of the metal chassis, that same plugged-in power supply will work. Avoid jamming the strap’s alligator clip into any PSU grilles or openings, and take care when using the strap’s leash to avoid tipping over any fragile parts.

Additionally, shield the surface you’re working on. Use a towel, pad, or other soft material to protect the surface if you’re building your PC on furniture whose finish matters to you. Consider the PC case as well. In order to finish the build, you’ll need to lay it on its sides, and a soft layer will shield it from being scratched by a rough workbench.

Make sure you have a safe place to store these panels after they are detached if your chassis has any glass sides. Reinstall the side panels in the box, cushioned by packing foam, rather than leaving them balanced on edge where you could trip and fall.

Similarly, work in an area that is clutter-free and has lots of room for parts to be spread out. Good lighting is essential, and food and beverages should most definitely not be present in the area. Finally, a book light or other small clip-on light and your smartphone are two useful but optional items. Take pictures of the motherboard using the latter’s camera, then enlarge the images for better viewing. If your eyesight is not very good, you can use a magnifying glass.

2. Install the CPU on the Motherboard

Remove the motherboard from the anti-static bag and package. Lay it out in front of you on a large mouse pad or your plush towel. Additionally, the motherboard box itself is usable.

The term “land grid array,” or LGA, denotes the placement of the contact pins in the socket between the CPU and motherboard. Up until recently, AMD processors employed a pin grid array called a PGA array, which has nothing to do with golf but rather with the processor’s pins fitting into a motherboard socket that has been perforated.

Regardless of the type—PGA or LGA—exercise extreme caution when handling the motherboard and processor, and double that caution when pins are involved. It’s very simple to bend the pins in a socket or on a chip, and if the damage can be repaired at all, it may require do-it-yourself microsurgery. To prevent regret later, go with extreme caution.

The motherboard has a load lever on one side of the CPU socket that is secured in place with spring tension. The socket is shielded by a black plastic protecting square. To release the retention frame covering the CPU socket, depress and pull away the load lever, allowing it to rise.

The hundreds of pins within the socket are now visible. Look for a tiny arrow indicator in one corner of the socket now (it might be on the retaining frame or the cover you just removed). Ascertain the corner that the arrow points to. Keep it in mind.

Open your processor now. You want to avoid leaving any skin oil or other debris on the contacts, so carefully pry open the little plastic clamshell that contains the chip and remove it out by its edges. Look closely at the top of the chip; an arrow should be visible in one area where the circuit board peeks out from around the edge of the thicker metal die. Place the chip such that its arrow corresponds with the socket corner you previously located.

Observe that the chip has notches on both edges. These notches should match up with nibs in the socket that will contact them when the arrows are aligned. In the socket parallel to the board, lower the CPU. Alternatively, align the lower edge and lower the chip from a 45-degree angle to a level surface; however, avoid pressing or mashing the pins in any manner. Should you need to press to get the CPU to fit properly, you’re not doing it correctly. Make sure you got the orientation correct by carefully removing the CPU and trying again if it seems off-kilter or not exactly flat.

Again, please: Never force anything! Something is wrong with the orientation or something else if the CPU does not engage properly. A CPU should never, ever be pressed into a socket. It’s likely that you will break the pins and become depressed, angry, and possibly bankrupt.

Give your processor a small, left-to-right jiggle to make sure it’s precisely seated, assuming it’s flat and everything appears to be in order. Be kind! Nothing should move the chip even a millimeter. After you are certain that the CPU is positioned correctly, you should snap the plastic cover off of the frame that holds it in place. Usually, the plastic hooks onto the frame and requires some effort or wiggling to remove.

Put it away. After that, depress the load lever back to its starting position and drop the retention frame over the processor to a nearly closed position. It will need some force to do this task—possibly a little bit more than feels comfortable. There ought to be a constant push. If something doesn’t seem quite right, like the silver heat spreader on top of the CPU not fitting precisely into the retention frame’s opening, stop and inspect the processor’s seating again. The frame should be held closed under stress by the lever as it slides under its holding hook. Best wishes! Your CPU has been installed successfully.

In the unlikely event that you are not utilizing a late-model Intel processor, let’s take a quick diversion to examine the installation procedures for other popular CPU sockets before continuing.

Alternative CPU Installation: AMD Ryzen AM4 and AM5

Whether your motherboard is an older AM4 board or one of the new Ryzen 7000 platforms that use the AM5 socket will determine how to install the AMD Ryzen CPU on it.

The backside of AM4 chips and older heritage AMD processors is pin-equipped. The general ideas behind AM4 and AM5 are the same as those we described for Intel’s LGA1700: Before inserting your processor into the socket, locate the matching arrow, lift the retention frame, remove the protective cover, and release the tension lever next to the socket.

The protrusions and carved-out notches surrounding the edges of the CPU and socket may differ somewhat, but the general guidelines remain the same: go slowly and don’t use any force.

With its sensitive pins, AM4 processors are particularly affected by this. For heaven’s sake, don’t drop these chips, and never lay them face down anyplace other than in their plastic carrier or in a socket. It will be followed by dozens of bent pins and salty tears.

Alternative CPU Installation: AMD Ryzen Threadripper

It’s unlikely that you will be constructing a Ryzen Threadripper system; they are intended for high-end workstation users and professionals in design who require a large number of CPU cores at the expense of other components. Additionally, they are not the best choice for novice builders. Although the install is more complicated, building around a Threadripper CPU is still not all that different.

With the newest silicon, Ryzen Threadripper processors have a tiny torque wrench called sTRX4 that you use to open and close the motherboard socket. The retention frame can be released by loosening the three star screws in the socket in a specific order by following an etched pattern on the socket or its cover. After the latter rises, you might have to push two levers within the socket to raise a second guide frame beneath it.

There is an orange plastic carrier that holds the Threadripper chip itself. Once inside the carrier, slide the chip through the guide frame of the CPU socket until it reaches the bottom. Make sure the orange plastic part fits into the inside of the frame tabs correctly.

After that, carefully lower the frame until it is in line with the sTRX4 socket and push the levers to secure the chip.

After that, the outer retention frame is fastened with screws that are tightened in a reverse 3-2-1 sequence until the torque tool registers an adequate number of turns. Once again, adhere to the socket’s directions.

Alternative CPU Installation: Intel Core X-Series

The Intel Core X-Series HEDT processor is the last variation. With the exception of having two tensioning levers, one on each side, this CPU socket, which goes by the latest version LGA2066, functions similarly to any other modern Intel socket.

It will become clear when you attempt it which sequence you need to release and reseat the levers in.

3. Install the Memory on the Motherboard

Now let’s proceed. Some seasoned PC builders would contend that the motherboard should be installed inside the PC case for the subsequent procedures to be completed; given the chassis and components you’ve selected, that may hold true. For visibility and convenience, we will, however, carry out the next two stages outside the case for this build.

DDR4 RAM is used in our new desktop. While some late-model Intel motherboards employ the more recent DDR5 standard, others continue to use DDR4. DDR5 is used by all AMD Ryzen 7000 boards with AM5 sockets, while DDR4 is used by AM4 boards. Only one type of memory can be supported by any specific motherboard. Both varieties are available as DIMMs (dual inline memory modules), which are sticks.

Examine your DDR4 modules carefully. There will be a notch visible on the contacts’ edge. There is just one way to install the DIMMs; line up that notch with the keying within the motherboard memory slots. However, before you install them, go to the motherboard handbook to determine the best installation configuration for the quantity of modules you have.

There are four DIMM slots on most mainstream boards, two of which you’re presumably using. Use the slots that your motherboard handbook instructs you to use; don’t just choose any slot. The second and fourth slots away from the CPU socket are usually what you’ll use, but occasionally board manufacturers will pull a surprise move.

There will be a lever on one or both ends of the DIMM sockets on the motherboard. Insert the module parallel to the board and press firmly with a thumb at either end after lowering one or both of the levers on the slots you intend to utilize. The levers should raise and contact the notches at either end as the module clicks into place.

If there’s no satisfying click, the DIMM isn’t installed correctly. Give it a little tug to see if it comes loose. For new builders, boot failure is frequently caused by an incorrectly seated DIMM.

The DIMM notch is merely positioned differently to prevent DDR5 from being installed in a DDR4 slot and vice versa. Installing DDR5 memory is similar to installing DDR4 memory. As before, consult the handbook to determine the modules’ ideal slot locations, and after you’re done, confirm that they are seated correctly.

4. Install the M.2 SSD on the Motherboard

While M.2 solid-state drives are currently the default boot disk, hard drives are not becoming extinct. An M.2 SSD inserts straight into an M.2 slot on your motherboard and resembles a stick of gum with microchips on both sides. For information on which M.2 slot on your motherboard provides direct access to the CPU (generally, but not always, the one closest to the CPU socket), consult the manual. The platform controller hub, or PCH, connects the other M.2 slots; for optimal performance, place your boot drive in the slot that is directly connected to the CPU M.2 slot.

Our PCI Express NVMe SSD is the Corsair MP600. A motherboard’s M.2 slot may be compatible with either the PCI Express or Serial ATA (SATA) buses. Although the latter is a legacy option, it might still matter for older boards or disks. Additionally, the PCIe slots may support multiple PCI Express versions based on the age of the board. For optimal performance, you should align the SSD’s capabilities with the motherboard slot; later PCI Express models allow for higher peak data transfer speeds. The first PCIe 5.0 SSDs are just now making their way onto the market, thus the newest, most expensive motherboards are needed. PCI Express 5.0 is relatively new, and it boasts the quickest possible speeds. PCI Express 3.0 or 4.0 models make up the majority of modern SSDs; if you purchase a PCIe 4.0 SSD, you need definitely match it with a 4.0-capable slot.

After deciding which slot to utilize, you may discover that it is either open or has a heatsink or heat spreader covering it. The latter, like on our Asus board, can appear to be a decorative element that you must unscrew and take out.

A tiny surface strip or a bigger superstructure with a heatsink may serve as the SSD’s own heat spreader. You should be very careful here because the newest SSDs have a tendency to overheat. Unless the drive you purchase has a more durable heat spreader installed, we advise using the motherboard’s inherent heat spreader. You can leave any tiny heat strips, such as those made of graphene, on it in situ and cover them with a heat spreader like ours that comes with the motherboard.

Installing an M.2 drive can be a little tricky, requiring a few different screws and screwdriver tips, depending on the motherboard. Take off any heat spreader covering the M.2 slot that you intend to utilize. Most aftermarket desktop SSDs (also known as Type-2280) have a length of 80mm. Verify if the board has a standoff (a tiny screw-in mount) at the Type-2280 position. If not, you might need to remove the standoff from the motherboard box, install it, or move the one that already exists. There might be a small screw on top of the standoff, or you might have to look in the box for that. In either case, take out or keep the microscrew handy. Here, the screw is part of the heatsink itself.

Taking care to observe the notch in both the drive and the slot, insert the M.2 SSD at a shallow angle. There should be a click, and when you release it, the SSD should rise to a height of about 45 degrees due to spring tension.

Should your design feature separate screws, place the tiny screw into the magnetic end of a tiny Phillips bit, force the SSD into place, and screw the drive onto the standoff. This tiny screw may easily fly off into a crack or onto the rug, of course. These screws have been replaced on a few new boards with swiveling latches. If you have a motherboard, I’ll bully for you!

You could notice that your SSD has two notches on its edge but only one in the slot if it’s a SATA drive rather than a PCIe M.2 drive. As previously stated, some slots accept both PCIe and SATA. This is acceptable as long as you know where you’re connecting in your SSD.

Before installing the SSD and any heatsink cover, keep the following in mind: if the motherboard has a thermal pad beneath it, remove any plastic covering it has. (The pad is typically slightly tacky.) Likewise, there is typically a pad with a plastic strip covering it on the underside of the motherboard-integrated heatsink cover. Before putting the heatsink cover back on, peel it off.

In order to keep your SSD cool, the thermal pad should be in good contact with its surface. In our instance, installing the cover is the opposite of removing it, and the drive is likewise secured in place by the heatsink cover screw.

All right, time to insert the motherboard into the casing!

5. Mount the Motherboard in the Case

We are constructing a PC using a full-size ATX motherboard. The motherboard you are working with may fluctuate in size depending on the case you chose.

The most common motherboard size for a tower or minitower PC is ATX. The next smaller size, MicroATX, is appropriate for midsize chassis (some small towers, some various shapes). MicroATX boards are often the least expensive. The tiniest popular board type, Mini-ITX, is only intended for extremely small desktop computers (also known as small-form-factor, or SFF) and is quite expensive. Moreover, they only have one primary PCI Express expansion slot available for a graphics card.

If your case is similar to ours in that it’s a standard midtower, take out both of its side panels. In this instance, you take out two thumbscrews from each panel and use your thumbs to pry off the edges.

If there is a glass panel on either side, store it somewhere secure. Turn the chassis over so that the large opening for the motherboard is facing up. There will be a tangle of cables inside the case that are attached to the front panel; arrange these to be out of the way. When mounting the board, you don’t want any cables to get caught underneath it.

Either preinstalled metal components with threaded holes (standoffs) or holes for adding such standoffs can be found inside the case. Examine your motherboard and make sure the holes on it line up with the standoffs or standoff holes in the tray. In the event that standoffs are not already installed, you must arrange them in the case according to the motherboard’s installation pattern. If standoffs are preinstalled, you must ensure that one is inserted into each board hole and—this is crucial—that none are inserted into any holes that do not correspond with the motherboard’s holes.

One tried-and-true method, if your case doesn’t come with standoffs already installed, is to take a big piece of paper, cut it to fit your motherboard, then use a pencil to mark where the holes are on the motherboard.

After that, you can insert the standoffs or confirm their locations by punching through the paper’s guide holes while the paper is within the case.

You might expect eight or nine holes on an ATX board; a MicroATX platform might have seven or eight, and a Mini-ITX would have less. Use pliers to remove any preinstalled standoffs that need to be removed. A hexagonal Phillips screwdriver bit is sometimes included in the accessory box of PC cases to facilitate the installation or removal of standoffs.

Each PC case comes with a packet of screws for several mounts; many have three or four different types of screws that can be used for mounting motherboards, attaching drives to cages, and other purposes. For information on the kind of standoffs to use while mounting the motherboard and organizing them into your parts tray, consult your handbook. Make sure you’re using the right screws by doing a dry fit on one or two of them; different varieties may appear similar but not fit.

Depending on how the board is designed, there might be a step you need to complete before installing it. The motherboard box could have an I/O shield or RF shield plate on it. It acts as a pass-through panel for the motherboard ports and slides into the case’s rectangular slot at the back. The I/O shield is integrated into some contemporary motherboards and is fastened to the ports cluster. In case the shield is an independent component, firmly attach it to the ports with the right side facing up.

The inside of the case is where the I/O shield is installed. In certain cases, the shields are made of metal with sharp edges, so you have a higher chance of injuring yourself here than anywhere else. It often takes some force at each corner, one by one, to get the shield to snap into place.

Make sure the ports poke and show through the I/O shield appropriately by test-fitting the motherboard after the plate is placed (it should pop when it snaps in).

Lastly, arrange the board such that its ports face the I/O shield, taking special care to avoid trapping any cables underneath. Carefully lower the board into position. Avoid scratching the standoffs, and if the I/O shield was fitted separately, make sure you can see clearly into every port through it.

One of the I/O shield’s tensioning tabs can easily become stuck inside an Ethernet, HDMI, or USB port; if this occurs, you’ll need to disassemble the computer in order to fix it. Either worst, the port won’t work.

Every mounting hole on the motherboard ought to line up with a case standoff.

Take out the motherboard screws from the case package, a suitable Phillips bit, and a magnetic screwdriver, and start screwing the board in place. To ensure that the other screws line up, start with the screw in the middle and work your way outward. After inserting the initial screws, the other ones ought to be simple. You’re using the incorrect screws if they merely rotate instead of catching.

After tightening a few screws, tilt the case and make sure the CPU cutaway in the tray allows you to easily access the motherboard’s back. You’ll notice that we haven’t yet discussed installing the CPU cooler. To do so, you’ll typically need to have access to the motherboard’s back; you could even need to put a plate or bracket behind the board. The four mounting holes surrounding the CPU socket are generously opened from below in almost all modern cases, but it never hurts to double check before you go too far.

The case wiring comes next after the motherboard is firmly in place and the screws have been tightened. We’ll clear the way for these cables now as they’re little and difficult to reach later in the build. Grab your magnifying glass or monocle.

6. Connect the Case Cables to the Motherboard

This procedure requires patience and steady hands. The PC chassis is home to every cable that we will now install. The cables for your front-panel USB ports, the front-panel audio connection or jacks, and the controls and LEDs on the case are some of these that are common to all cases, though most are case-specific.

The cables for the so-called front-panel header, a dense cluster of pins often located on one edge of the motherboard, should be dealt with first because they are the most challenging. You’ll have two to four pieces to plug in here, divided up differently depending on your case. First, locate the front-panel header arrangement on the board by consulting the instructions for your motherboard. A diagram of how to plug in the necessary wires is included in the instructions, along with a little grid that indicates which pin on the header does what.

Anticipate a two-pin power switch cable as well as a potential power LED wire that might be divided into two little leads, each with one pin. Reset switch leads and hard drive LED leads are also frequently seen. Each of them is attached to a pin or pins in the header cluster of the front panel. Try your best to run all of these cables behind the motherboard tray such that they emerge close to the pin cluster for the front panel header.

The small print on the connectors, which makes it simple to misread or mix up which is which, is the worst thing about these cables. Additionally, keep in mind their polarity: In the event that an LED connection is plugged in backwards, switches will continue to operate. If I’m using the correct term, the cable usually has a white block or arrow that indicates which lead is positive; in other situations, you may need to consult the handbook. Positive (+) and negative (-) are typically located on the left and right of a motherboard, though they can be switched. The details are in the motherboard handbook.

Using a small flashlight to read the writing on the header and then consulting the handbook is the most reliable method of ensuring that you don’t make a mistake. You can reposition the plugs even if you make a mistake the first time. Bending a pin or pins is one major risk associated with front-panel header plugs. If the plugs don’t seem to fit well, don’t force them.

Connecting the front-panel USB connectors is the next step. There should be a minimum of one USB Type-A port on the front panel of your case, potentially paired with a second one and a USB Type-C connector. These attach to the motherboard’s USB headers, which supply the ports’ power and signal.

One or more headers for internal USB 3.0 or 3.1 connections ought to be visible. These resemble a three-sided rectangle and are occasionally black, but generally blue. It is a USB 3.x connector if the plug you plan to use has a 20-pin connector, which is broad and rather blocky. Connect this cable to the 19-pin (or 20-pin) front-panel USB header by running it under the motherboard tray and aligning it with the pinhole that is missing from the cable plug.

Moreover, your case can contain a USB Type-C port on the front panel. If so, the board use a distinct USB header for this. It could be a different style, usually smaller, or it might be a 20-pin header as mentioned above. To find the correct port on the motherboard for the Type-C connector, go to the motherboard handbook.

Lastly, the front panel of your case can include two outdated USB 2.0 ports. These are meant to be plugged into an alternate header, which is typically a 9-pin header on the board (which is blocked out in two rows of four). The location of the USB 2.0 headers on the board can be found by consulting the instructions.

Front-panel audio is housed in the final front-panel header. HD Audio, also referred to as AC’97, is the default front audio standard that should be supported by all modern motherboards and casings. The audio header has more pins and resembles a USB header in appearance, but it is slightly smaller. Usually located at the bottom left of the motherboard, the HD Audio header can also be found on the motherboard documentation. In most cases, the connector has a missing pinhole to correspond with the header’s missing pin.

7. Install Your Power Supply (PSU)

Installing the power supply unit is the following step. Depending on the case design, this part may be inside or external; however, most PSUs are internal and install at the back of the case.

Remove the protective foam and bags from your PSU’s box. The wires may be pre-installed in certain instances, or they may be modular so you may put in just the ones you require. In the event of the latter, get the relevant cables from the PSU box.

The majority of PSUs are mounted with the fan pointing downward, which draws cool air in from the case’s bottom and releases warm air out the back. Using the screws that come with the PSU, align the mounting points on the casing with the screw holes on the PSU. Generally, the screws are a common size, but in case you’re unclear, you should refer to the handbook.

After the PSU is firmly installed, run the power lines to their designated locations underneath the motherboard tray. An 8-pin or 4+4-pin EPS connector for the CPU, an additional PCIe power connector for the graphics card, and maybe other components are required in addition to the primary 24-pin ATX power connector for the motherboard. Plug in just the wires you require if your PSU is modular to reduce clutter.

8. Connect the Power Supply to the Motherboard and Components

It is now time to connect the PSU to the motherboard and other parts after it has been installed. The largest power connector, the 24-pin ATX power connector, is typically found along the motherboard’s right edge. Let’s start with it. After routing the cable behind the motherboard tray, firmly insert the plug.

Next, attach the 8-pin or 4+4-pin EPS power connector to the CPU power header, which is often found on the motherboard’s upper left corner. Make sure the cable clicks into place by carefully plugging it in after routing it behind the tray.

In case you possess a dedicated graphics card, connect the required PCIe power connectors from the power supply unit. Depending on the card, these connectors are often either 6-pin, 8-pin, or a combination of the two. Connect the cables to the card by routing them behind the tray.

Use the correct wires from the PSU to attach any other parts you have that need power, such as cooling fans or storage disks. SSDs and hard drives require SATA power connectors, although some fans or older components may require Molex connectors.

9. Install the Graphics Card (GPU)

Installing a dedicated graphics card is now recommended if your PC build has one. Locate the PCIe x16 slot on the motherboard—typically the top slot—and remove any protective cover from the card. Remove any expansion slot covers that are in the way in your case so that there is room for the card.

Align the gold connector with the PCIe slot while holding the card by its edges, then carefully press it in until it clicks. Using the included screws, securely attach the card to the case, making sure it stays in place.

As previously indicated, attach any required PCIe power connectors from the PSU to the card. Make sure that the cables are correctly routed to prevent any obstacles.

10. Install Storage Drives

Installing your storage disks is now necessary, regardless of whether you’re utilizing M.2 SSDs, 2.5-inch SSDs, or conventional 3.5-inch hard drives. Installing an M.2 SSD on the motherboard has already been discussed, now let’s examine the other varieties.

Determine the proper mounting spots in your case for 3.5-inch hard drives and 2.5-inch SSDs. There are specific drive cages or trays in several circumstances. If your case includes tool-less mounts, you can snap the drives into place by following the instructions, or you can use the included screws to secure the drives.

Attach the disks’ SATA data wires to the motherboard’s SATA ports. After that, attach the disks’ SATA power cords to the PSU. To keep the cables neat, route them under the motherboard tray.

11. Install the CPU Cooler

This is the perfect moment to install the CPU cooler if you haven’t previously. What you need to do for installation depends on what kind of cooler you have—liquid or air.

To install air coolers on CPU sockets, refer to the instructions that come with the cooler. This usually entails mounting the cooler with screws or clips, covering the CPU with thermal paste, and fastening a backplate or mounting bracket to the motherboard.

The radiator and fans for liquid coolers must be mounted to the case, commonly on top or in front. As directed by the cooler, fasten the radiator, put on thermal paste, and fit the pump into the CPU socket. Attach the pump and fans to the motherboard’s corresponding headers, which are frequently marked for AIO pumps or CPU fans.

12. Connect Case Fans and Additional Cooling

If your case has additional cooling fans, connect them to the appropriate headers on the motherboard or a fan controller. Most motherboards have several fan headers labeled for system fans (SYS_FAN) or chassis fans (CHA_FAN).

Route the fan cables behind the motherboard tray and plug them into the headers. If you’re using a fan controller or hub, connect the fans to the hub and then connect the hub to a power source, usually a SATA power connector from the PSU.

13. Final Cable Management and Checks

Before you close up the case, take some time to tidy up the cables. Use cable ties or Velcro straps to bundle cables together and secure them behind the motherboard tray. Good cable management improves airflow and makes the build look cleaner.

Double-check all connections to ensure everything is securely plugged in. Look over the motherboard, GPU, storage drives, and PSU connections. Ensure no cables are obstructing fans or airflow.

14. Close the Case and Power On

Once you’re satisfied with the cable management and all connections, replace the side panels of the case. Secure them with the thumbscrews or screws provided.

Plug in your monitor, keyboard, mouse, and any other peripherals. Connect the power cable to the PSU and switch it on.

Press the power button on the case. If everything is connected correctly, your PC should power on and POST (Power-On Self-Test). You should see the motherboard or manufacturer’s logo on the screen, indicating a successful build.

15. Install the Operating System

Once your PC powers on and completes the Power-On Self-Test (POST), you’ll need to install the operating system (OS). Here’s a step-by-step guide to get you started:

1. Insert the Installation Media: Insert the bootable USB drive or DVD containing the OS installation files into your PC.
2. Access the BIOS/UEFI: Restart your computer and enter the BIOS/UEFI by pressing the key indicated on the screen during boot (usually Delete, F2, or Esc).
3. Set Boot Priority: Navigate to the boot menu and set the USB drive or DVD as the primary boot device. Save the changes and exit the BIOS/UEFI.
4. Begin Installation: Your PC should boot from the installation media. Follow the on-screen prompts to begin the OS installation process.
5. Select Language and Preferences: Choose your language, time and currency format, and keyboard layout. Click “Next” to proceed.
6. Install Now: Click “Install Now” to start the installation process.
7. Enter Product Key: If prompted, enter the product key for your OS. You can often skip this step and enter the key later.
8. License Agreement: Read and accept the license terms. Click “Next” to continue.
9. Custom Installation: Choose “Custom: Install Windows only (advanced)” to perform a fresh installation.
10. Select Installation Drive: Choose the drive where you want to install the OS. If you have multiple drives, select the primary SSD or the fastest drive available. Click “Next” to proceed.
11. Partitioning: If the drive is new, you may need to create a new partition. Follow the prompts to create and format partitions as needed. Click “Next” to start the installation.
12. Installation Process: The installer will copy files and install the OS. This process may take some time, and your PC may restart several times.
13. Set Up Windows: Once the installation is complete, follow the on-screen prompts to set up Windows. You’ll be asked to choose your region, keyboard layout, and whether you want to connect to a network.
14. Create User Account: Set up a user account and password. You may also be asked to sign in with a Microsoft account or create a local account.
15. Configure Settings: Choose your privacy settings and configure Windows preferences. You can opt to use default settings or customize them according to your needs.
16. Install Drivers: After Windows is set up, it’s essential to install the latest drivers for your hardware components. Visit the websites of your motherboard, GPU, and other hardware manufacturers to download and install the latest drivers.
17. Run Windows Update: Open the Settings app, go to “Update & Security,” and click “Check for updates.” Install any available updates to ensure your system is up to date.
18. Install Software: Install your preferred software, such as web browsers, productivity tools, games, and any other applications you need.
19. Backup Your System: Consider creating a backup of your fresh installation using built-in tools like Windows Backup or third-party software. This will save you time if you need to reinstall the OS in the future.
    

Final Steps and Troubleshooting

Final Checks

1. Check Device Manager: Open Device Manager to ensure all hardware components are correctly recognized and have drivers installed. If any devices show an error or are missing drivers, download and install the appropriate drivers from the manufacturer’s website.
2. Monitor Temperatures: Use software like HWMonitor or the motherboard’s provided utilities to check the temperatures of your CPU, GPU, and other components. Ensure that temperatures are within safe operating ranges, especially if you’re using an overclocked system or custom cooling solutions.
3. Test System Stability: Run stress tests and benchmarks to check the stability and performance of your system. Tools like Prime95 for CPU stress testing, FurMark for GPU stress testing, and MemTest86 for memory testing can help identify any stability issues.
4. Optimize BIOS/UEFI Settings: Re-enter the BIOS/UEFI to fine-tune settings such as memory speed, CPU settings, and fan profiles. Ensure that XMP (for Intel) or DOCP (for AMD) profiles are enabled for optimal memory performance.
   

Troubleshooting Common Issues

1. No Power: If your PC doesn’t power on, double-check all power connections, ensure the PSU switch is on, and verify that the wall outlet is working. Ensure the front-panel power button connector is properly connected to the motherboard.
2. No Display: If you don’t see anything on the monitor, check that the monitor is powered on and connected to the correct output on the GPU. Ensure the GPU is seated correctly and all power connectors are plugged in.
3. Boot Loop or No POST: If your PC restarts repeatedly or doesn’t complete POST, check the memory modules. Ensure they are seated correctly and in the recommended slots. Try booting with one memory stick at a time to identify any faulty modules.
4. Overheating: If your system is running hot, ensure all fans are spinning, and the CPU cooler is installed correctly. Check for proper airflow and that no cables are obstructing the fans. Reapply thermal paste if necessary.
5. Unrecognized Hardware: If any hardware isn’t recognized, reinstall the drivers or try a different slot or port. Ensure that any necessary BIOS/UEFI settings are enabled for the hardware.
   

Conclusion

Building your own PC can be a rewarding and educational experience. By following this guide, you should now have a fully functional and optimized desktop PC tailored to your needs. Remember to keep your drivers and OS updated, monitor system performance, and enjoy the flexibility and power of your custom-built machine. Happy computing!